The world of artistic perfumery, showcased at the 23rd edition of Florence’s Pitti Fragranze with 258 brands, is looking to the East for the ideation and formulation of new products to satisfy the most demanding clients. Moving beyond classic components like jasmine or tuberose, the sector is now betting on extremely rare ingredients, discovered by the world’s most famous ‘noses’ during their travels. This ‘olfactory nomadism’ is the key to creating new essences.
The prestigious French maison Jovoy, for instance, launched ‘Ha Long Bay’ at the salon, an homage to Vietnam featuring only Vietnamese mango and rare Oriental woods, created by perfumer Véronique Nyberg. Meanwhile, Berlin-based Raer Scents, led by creative director Ted Rohn, unveiled ‘Neroli + Cannabis’, a blend of Moroccan neroli, cannabis leaf, beeswax, Tuscan iris, and green mandarin. Renowned perfumer Laura Bosetti Tonatto also presented her line, Essenzialmente Laura, featuring two fragrances with rare ingredients discovered on her travels: ‘Incenso bianco’ with *Boswellia sacra* and orange blossoms, and ‘Rosa bianca’ with a rare, ancient Damask rose.
The global journey continues with brands like Reserve en Afrique, which uses Madagascan vanilla, enveloping Somali opoponax, Nigerian ginger, and Moroccan rose. Other notable blends include State of mind’s use of saffron and prickly pear, and Tombstone’s perfume by nose Tan Shuai, featuring top notes of mint, pepper, thyme, myrrh, and tonka bean.
Also making an impact is the so-called ‘K-factor’: Korean brands that are achieving exceptionally high standards through new technologies, not just in skincare. From Seoul comes the exclusive and highly popular brand Pesade, which has launched a new scent based on black tea, cedarwood, and rum, added through a special process.
Pitti Fragranze also debuted a dedicated skincare area. The standout novelty is V-beauty, skincare for the female intimate area. Udine-based company Bakel has developed a specific two-step routine of cleansing and hydration for this purpose. Another innovation is the filter-free sunscreen by AnnaB Cosmetics, which uses a blend of a Swedish anti-smog microalgae, raspberry seeds, seaweed, and wild helichrysum oil to defend against solar rays and blue light without synthetic filters.