Romantic, dreamy, and often crafted from crisp lightweight cotton with Victorian-inspired details, Lena Dunham’s new Netflix series “Too Much” has propelled nightgowns into the spotlight. They symbolize the vulnerable yet vibrant personality of protagonist Jessica, a New Yorker who relocates to London after unexpected work troubles and a catastrophic romantic breakup. The show blends Regency nostalgia with chaotic modernity.
Nightgowns (“nighties”), following pajamas’ lead out of the bedroom and onto the street, are poised for wider daytime adoption thanks to the series. Actress Daisy Edgar-Jones and model Kaia Gerber, who collaborated on a hybrid night-day line with Californian brand Dôen last year, have already been spotted wearing them during the day. The voluminous, inclusive nightgowns worn by Megan Stalter (who plays the plus-sized Kayla in “Hacks”) evoke a Jane Austen novel, featuring wide collars, ruffles, and lace for a theatrical, fairytale effect. They originate from the atelier of Emily Campbell, a former teacher whose independent label, If Only If, also designed a bespoke version for Jessica’s dog, Mia.
These nightgowns exemplify how costume design conveys emotion and identity. Coreographed and iconic in “Too Much”, they represent the character’s rebirth and inner struggle between romantic yearning and chaotic reality.
The semi-autobiographical rom-com, which debuted last week, was created by Dunham with the team behind “Love Actually” and “Notting Hill”. Now nearing 40 and married to British-Peruvian musician Luis Felber (a series collaborator), Dunham prefigured Jessica’s transatlantic move in her own life. The series boasts an ensemble cast including Will Sharpe, Andrew Rannells, Emily Ratajkowski, Richard Grant, Adèle Exarchopoulos, and Stephen Fry, alongside cameos from Andrew Scott, Kit Harington, Jennifer Saunders, Jessica Alba, and Rita Ora.
Word-of-mouth from the show has boosted popularity for Campbell’s designs, but she maintains her small-batch production model. “They will sell out,” she told the Financial Times. “That’s fine with me. I will never overproduce and end up with a pile of unsold nightgowns.”
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